+ 2 transition shades from another palette Shades used: Platinize, Telepathic Taupe, Smoke and Mirrors, Deep Velvet I don't mind deep, moody colors but these ones lack the vibrancy and intensity to make them stunning rather than drab. They all ended up being dark and dull, except if I used Sextrovert as the main shade on my lids. What really surprised and disappointed me is how the looks I was able to create with this palette lacked luminosity (I've done about 6 different looks). It's full of plummy browns, and I would say that the general undertone is more neutral to warm. Overall, the Subliminal palette is absolutely not as cool-toned as I expected from the online promotional pictures. It feels a little chunky to the touch but it applies well without too much fallout. Sextrovert is one of the better shades, a deep bronze with a soft metallic finish. It is, in fact, a dull brown with mauve-ish undertones, in a satin finish with a visible sheen, and it causes tons of fallout.

In the pan it looks like a luminous and vibrant shimmery purple. Ritualistic was another major disappointment. It swatched patchy but I didn't have issues blending it on the eye. Deep Velvet is a dark, brownish plum with a matte finish. It makes it hard to control when applying on the lid, you end up with glitter all over the place. This one also feels a little looser with gold shimmer that flies everywhere and causes lots of fallout. It applies as a sheer medium brown with a shimmery finish, nothing like the grayish taupe with subtle green undertones that you'd expect from the pan. Telepathic Taupe is the biggest let-down in this palette. It's intensely pigmented and goes on smoothly. Smoke and Mirrors is probably the best shade in the palette: a rich, buttery dark brown with a hint of mauve undertones and a glowing satin finish. It feels very creamy to the touch and doesn't cause fallout. It's a fine shade to use as a highlight in the inner corner of the eye, but nothing unusual. For some reason it looks off-white on my lids, loosing its undertone completely. Platinize is a semi-sheer light beige with a soft sheen. I was genuinely excited to experience Pat McGrath eyeshadows - but are they really worth the hype? Let's find out!

I jumped on the occasion to try the brand's much raved about and supposedly very luxurious eyeshadow formula, grabbing Subliminal, the palette that seemed to have cooler tones. But in a smart move the brand released three smaller, 6-pan eyeshadow palettes called MTHRSHP that are a lot more affordable for us commoners at $55. $125 for the Mothership eyeshadow palettes or $38 for a lipstick? No thanks. The only reason I hadn't purchased anything from Pat McGrath Labs until now is the high price tags. I don't know who the famous makeup artist worked with to launch her line but they all did a fantastic job with the branding. From website to packaging and social media everything is beautiful, cohesive and very appealing.

Ever since Pat McGrath launched her brand's permanent collection last year I've been fascinated by its aesthetics, a sort of dark, artsy underground but luxurious visual identity that looks very unique to me.

Pat mcgrath subliminal dark star dupes